The third class I attended during this year’s Make Up For Ever Pro Artistry class was a Fantasy class facilitated by Jessie Powers, Make Up For Ever Pro & Media Educator. This was the 2nd class she taught. To see my recap of the 1st class she taught on how to use the Flash Color Palette, click here.
She created an edgy almost drag or stage look for us.
Jessie taught us that there are two common ways to make the eye appear larger. Either raise the brow or drop the lower lash line. To drop the lower lash line you can use a white liner or intense smokey bottom lash line. To raise the brow, you can block out the brow. She used Spirit Gum to block out the brows. She warned us that it doesn’t usually look too good up close so try to do this when doing a photoshoot in which the pictures will be edited or for a performance on stage.
Once she blocked out the brows, she stated that it’ important to color correct the blocked out area. She used the Flash Color Palette and mixed the peachy/coral coral color in layers, then added MUFE Full Cover #8 and set it with Super Matte Loose using a powder puff. Jessie says powder puffs and sponges are essential when creating these fantasy looks. She used a white base on the lids as well as under the eyes. She started with light shadows (#35 and #41) . Then used a warm brown bronze (#54) to add a fake brow highlight. She used brush #214 (Jessie says it’s one of her essential brushes), a very small and precise brush. She explained that when working below the eye for a look like this, make sure the eye is open (have client look up). Next smudge the brown shadow below the lash line and later use a white kohl pencil to clean up the crease.
She added glitter and instructed us to make sure to to apply it before any black is used. She finished the eyes with the Cake Liner in Black using brushes #172 and #170. Another tip Jessie gave was to go section by section when doing eye liner. She does this for two reasons. 1.) to make sure the line is well placed. 2.) allows you to blend if needed.
She used the brown mixed with a little white for the crease color and to make a new brow. She also used it to contour the nose.